The South African wine industry is burgeoning and has been for several years. Wine exported from the fertile terroir of the lush Western Cape vinyards can be found in any city in the United States, and indeed, even in smaller communities the occasional gem can be found with “Product of South Africa” stamped on the side. I am something of a reverse wine snob inasmuch as if i can find it, I prefer South African wines, and then will choose wines from the Southern hemisphere over those from more highly regarded wine strongholds such as France, Italy, or California.
That said, my esoteric wine tastes do not come without at least a little bit of concern. Wine is, virtually by definition, a stronghold of privilege. In South Africa the meanings of this privilege are reenforced ny the privilege of race — wine is in South Africa an endeavor nor only of privilege, but of white privilege, with all of the ramifications that implies.
But as in many areas dominated by white South Africans blacks are beginning to make inroads. The process has been slow, but both the industry and the government have worked to encourage black involvement in all aspects of winemaking. Today's LA Times has an article about Ntsiki Biyela, a Zulu woman who has cracked open doors for so long closed to her. Biyela has had to overcome skepticism not only within her new world, but also at home among family and friends to whom winemaking is alien and at times alienating.
Transformation is going to take a long time in South Africa. But it is encouraging to see that even the most privileged bastions are opening their doors, however slowly.
